Kevin Fraser Bagpipes – The Man in the Kilt
Loud Pipes Save Lives!
Something I was asked recently was if I sell Gift Cards or Certificates. Usually this is for someone wanting to purchase a lesson as a gift.
The short answer is YES.
And the gift certificate is not limited to being used for lessons. You could also purchase one as a (partial) payment towards a performance.
If you have questions, please don’t hesitate to reach out to me.
Phone: 587-600-0013 (push 2 to get past robodialer block).
email: bagpipes@ksfraser.com
Being able to identify the parts of the Practice Chanter is a requirement for SCQF Level 2
The Mouthpiece is where the lips wrap around and through which air is blown. On most (plastic) practice chanters the mouthpiece is molded onto the top section. On wooden chanters, the mouthpiece is generally plastic and the top section wood.
The top section connects to the bottom section on the pin. It covers the reed completely, and air flows from the mouthpiece through the top section to and through the reed.
The blades of the reed is what vibrates causing the sound. The blades sit in the staple and the staple and blades are wrapped with hemp.
The bottom section contains the finger holes. It also contains the pin (joint) on which the top section is attached.
The Sole is ornamental, on the bottom of the chanter. It helps prevents wooden chanters from splitting. It also raises the chanter up off of the table (when resting on a table) which allows sound to escape.
Being able to maintain your Practice Chanter is a requirement for SCQF Level 3 Also see Care and Cleaning of your practice chanter
To make the reed harder to blow, we curve the blades (pinch the sides).
To make the reed easier to blow we flatten the blades (pinch the middle top of the blades).
To make a note sharper, you need to shorten the tube. One way to do this is to push the reed in slightly.
To make a note flatter, you need to lengthen the tube. One way to do this is to pull the reed out slightly.
Practice chanters are sensitive to extreme temperatures.
Make sure you always separate joints by grabbing onto the top and bottom of the joint immediately beside the joint before you twist. DO NOT leave a great space between your hands. The stress of the twisting motion can cause the chanter (or other part like a drone) to break, especially if it is wood.
On the newer practice chanters that are plastic, they usually have rubber o-rings for sealing the joint so hemping isn’t normally required. However, on wooden chanters it is required. Due to the air pressure required for the reed to sound, we need to ensure that the joint between the top section and the bottom section is as airtight as possible. This is accomplished by wrapping the pin with hemp. The hemp is coated with paraffin or bees wax to help make the hemp water resistent so that it doesn’t rot. The hemp also helps prevent the hemp from spinning on the pin.
To hemp the joint:
Form a loop with the hemp. The top of the loop is at one end of the pin and the free end of the loop is at the other. At the free end, start wrapping the pin with hemp by filling in the grooves (practice chanters that need to be hemped will have grooves). Once you have wrapped to the loop end, you insert the running end of the hemp through the loop, and then pull it under the wrappings by pulling on the free end of the hemp.
Continue adding layers of hemp as required such that the top section will fit snugly on the bottom section.
NOTE: If you haven’t used pre-waxed hemp, you will need to wax each layer of hemp as you have finished the layer.
Wipe down the outside of the chanter.
Wipe down the seat and around the pin (inner part of joint).
Insert your cloth up into the upper section of the chanter to absorb moisture that may be in the chanter.
You may also need to hold the bottom section upside down so that moisture drains from the chanter.
Wipe down the reed.
If there is moisture in the reed (it makes a gurgling sound when played) you can blow from the staple end of the reed and this will blow most of the moisture out of the reed.
Don’t use harsh chemicals on your chanter. Usually wiping the chanter down swill suffice, but if that isn’t sufficient, use luke warm water with a very mild soap.
Carefully line up the base section and the top section. Ensuring that you don’t scrape the reed on the inside of the top section, insert the base into the top so that the pin on the base is snugly in the top.
Store your practice chanter in a cool dry location. I usually store my chanter in my pipe case.
As Spring is now trying it’s best to be here, it is a good time to do bagpipe maintenance so that we can enjoy piping outdoors. I am looking at holding the class on either April 25th, 26th, May 16th or May 17th. If on a Saturday, the class would be from 1 until 4. … Continue reading “Spring is in the air. Time for Spring Cleaning (Bagpipe Maintenance)”
As Spring is now trying it's best to be here, it is a good time to do bagpipe maintenance so that we can enjoy piping outdoors.
I am looking at holding the class on either April 25th, 26th, May 16th or May 17th. If on a Saturday, the class would be from 1 until 4. If on the Sunday, it would be from noon until 2:30 (band practice will start a bit late). The cost would be $50 a participant.
Topics I intend to cover:
*Checking the bag for air tightness.
*Bag seasoning
*blowstick valves
*hemping of joints
*Adjusting Chanter reeds
*Adjusting drone reeds
*Tuning the chanter to itself
*retying a stock (as required)
*discuss water traps/cannisters
If you are interested in attending the class, please contact me at bagpipes@ksfraser.com indicating your order of preference for the dates listed above.
Now that the birds are chirping outside, Spring is on its way. And that means its time for a spring cleaning, bagpipe style. It is now time to do that maintenance that has been put off. Check all hemp and replace any that is not 100% Check the air tightness of the bag. Season as … Continue reading “Time for a Spring Cleaning on the pipes”
Now that the birds are chirping outside, Spring is on its way. And that means its time for a spring cleaning, bagpipe style.
It is now time to do that maintenance that has been put off.
Stay tuned for a date when I will hold a drop-in class on bagpipe maintenance!
<h1>Reeds and SilSeal do not mix!</h1> This is a heads up, do your utmost best to not let drone reeds fall into your leather bag that is seasoned with SilSeal. SilSeal is a great sealing agent. It works so well it also seals your reed’s tongue so that it will not vibrate. Nothing worse than … Continue reading “Reeds falling into a bag seasoned with SilSeal”
<h1>Reeds and SilSeal do not mix!</h1>
This is a heads up, do your utmost best to not let drone reeds fall into your leather bag that is seasoned with SilSeal. SilSeal is a great sealing agent. It works so well it also seals your reed’s tongue so that it will not vibrate. Nothing worse than having the reed fall out just as you are warming up for a performance 🙁
Unfortunately, it will take a bit of time and effort. First step is to wipe off all of the excess SilSeal. If you’ve been playing a lot recently, this could be a fair amount as the moisture in your breath (ok, spit really) will soften the SilSeal turning it into a nice goop.
Next, let the reed and the remaining SilSeal dry out. Out of the bag, in either your pipe case or even better sitting on a counter on a paper towel.
Next, see if the tongue will vibrate. Chances are it is stuck to the reed. You may need to pry it open. You may even need to sand the tongue/groove a tiny bit. If so, use very very fine sand paper. You want it nice and smooth. A rough sand paper will leave burrs, gouges, etc.
Now see if it vibrates. If not, see my pages on reed maintenance.